The sea and sky transform beautifully throughout the day. During the full moon, guests can also glimpse the Moon Road, chosen as one of Japan’s 100 Best Moon Views.
Approximately two hours from Tokyo by the limited express Odoriko is Izu-Atagawa. In this hot spring town, the cliffs overlooking Sagami Bay and the drifting steam evoke the atmosphere of the Showa era. On a hill rising above this landscape stands Izu Retreat Atagawa Suiko by Onko Chishin, reborn in November 2025 with Showa nostalgia as its guiding theme.
Originally opened in the 1990s as an inn celebrated for its views under the name Izu Atagawa Onsen Suiko, the property has been rebranded. Behind the transformation is Onko Chishin, a company that reinterprets the history and culture of regions throughout Japan and elevates them into refined luxury stays. The renewed inn beautifully unites the cherished legacy of old Atagawa with contemporary design, inviting guests to experience what can be described as nostalgic luxury.
Izu’s most abundant free-flowing hot spring waters can be found here. As you wander the streets, wooden structures sheltering the iconic steam towers remain scattered throughout the town. The steam rising in the morning light feels faintly dreamlike.
The terrace facing the sea features a reflecting pool that mirrors the sky, visually merging with Sagami Bay below. Station transfers are provided in a 1990s classic car, the Mitsuoka Galue-I. These small yet deliberate details add to the sense of occasion.
The renovated guest rooms all offer ocean views, each equipped with a private open-air bath fed directly by natural hot spring water. The original 24-room layout has been reconfigured into a more spacious arrangement of 16 rooms, with every room featuring its own distinct design.
Accents of updated Showa aesthetics lend character to the spaces: pennant-style decorations designed across the walls, analog room keys, and cabinets woven in rattan basket patterns. These details evoke the archetypal atmosphere of a Showa-era hot spring town, like opening a drawer of childhood recollections and feeling a quiet sense of nostalgia unfold.
Pennants, once a staple souvenir of tourist spots, have been redesigned with a contemporary flair. The commitment to a classical aesthetic extends even to the room keys.
Among the creatively conceived rooms is a suite where the former public bath has been redesigned as a living area. There are also rooms equipped with karaoke facilities and others that incorporate Japanese-style rooms, each reflecting a unique concept.
Long cherished as a therapeutic hot spring destination, Atagawa’s waters are renowned for being among the highest-temperature naturally gushing springs in Japan. The property possesses two private wells, yielding an abundant flow of approximately 200 liters per minute. This allows guests to soak in their in-room open-air baths anytime while taking in sweeping views of the sea below.
The water is also known as the Miracle Spring, a name rooted in a legend involving Ota Dokan, the Muromachi-era figure known for constructing Edo Castle. According to the tale, he witnessed a monkey healing its wounds in hot water rising from a riverbed. Rich in metasilicic acid and believed to promote skin renewal, the spring offers a restorative experience for both body and mind. Being able to enjoy these waters freely, in complete privacy, is one of the unique privileges of the refined guest rooms with attached baths.
The spring is primarily a chloride and sulfate mineral water. It warms the body to its core and leaves the skin softly hydrated after bathing.
In the early evening before dinner, a complimentary free-flow service is offered in the lounge. The selection includes sake, wine, and whisky connected to Shizuoka Prefecture, as well as the nostalgically familiar Denki Bran. During cherry blossom season, a liqueur scented with Kawazu-zakura adds a festive touch to aperitif time.
The memories of a journey often reside in the atmosphere of a place and the food enjoyed there. Perhaps that is the true essence of a journey, something not reserved for gourmets alone. The hotel’s dining venue, Shio to Sakazuki, comes alive at twilight as the sea and sun begin to transform. In the evening, guests dine beneath the glow of the moon and by morning, the space is filled with sunlight coloring the horizon.
The evening course is a culinary experience not to miss. On a visit in early February, the twelve-course menu began with kombu-cured red sea bream and monkfish liver wrapped in red turnip. Paired with Charles Pougeoise Brut Premier Cru, the Chardonnay’s freshness blended perfectly with an espuma-style ponzu sauce. Amberjack sashimi and soy-marinated tuna followed with Hakuen Masamune from Takashima Shuzo, a Numazu brewery founded in the Edo period. The same sake accompanied the abalone shabu-shabu, this time gently warmed. Thoughtful pairings, and the subtle adjustments, attuned to the guest’s pace and the flow of the meal, reflected a quiet attentiveness that left a lasting impression.
The tableware, sourced mainly from Shizuoka artists, adds a refined border that makes every dish look even more enticing.
After indulging in a remarkable culinary experience in unfamiliar surroundings, I returned to my room. Immersing myself once more in the bath, the sound of the waves melting into the darkness beyond, I fell into a deep, almost disarming sleep. The following morning, restored by the retreat, I woke naturally with the rising sun. A short walk before breakfast brought small encounters with early-blooming Kawazu-zakura scattered here and there, their delicate blossoms quietly lifting the spirits.
The sunrise over the sea and the delicate Kawazu cherry blossoms became a sweet, enduring memory of Atagawa.
Breakfast was served in a tiered jubako-style box, filled with both mountain and sea delicacies. From Izu burdock root, taro, and shiitake mushrooms to local catches such as aji namerō, simmered kinmedai, grilled mahi-mahi, and gently braised yellowtail, the flavors of the region were beautifully condensed into small dishes. Each carefully prepared morsel was lifted gently with chopsticks, savored with intention, and tasted slowly between measured breaths.
As the leisurely, extraordinary morning meal came to an end, I felt my mind gradually realign itself with the rhythm of everyday life, steadier and clearer. It was only a one-night stay, yet perhaps it was the space’s quiet pull toward nostalgia, combined with the open-hearted magic of the seaside, that offered a blissful reminder of how essential it is to treat oneself with care.
The soothing morning meal awakened a quiet joy in both body and mind.
Izu Retreat Atagawa Suiko by Onko Chishin
Location: 1271-2 Naramoto, Higashiizu Town, Kamo District, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan
Official Website: https://suiko.by-onko-chishin.com/
