When I heard that a shop combining a soba stand and a wine shop had opened in Shibuya, my first thought was, Why soba and wine? The fruity acidity and sweetness of wine didn’t seem like something that would naturally complement the flavors of soba. But the moment I took my first bite, it all made sense.
The Meeting of V and S
Opened in September 2024 in Shibuya’s Miyamasuzaka area, VS (Bui Esu) is an unconventional collaboration between VIRTUS, a wine shop, and SUBA, a standing soba restaurant from Kyoto. The first floor, SUBA VS, serves standing soba, while the second floor, VIRTUS VS, operates as a wine shop and bar. Here, guests can enjoy the unexpected yet intriguing pairing of soba and wine.
First Floor: SUBA VS
Opened in December 2021 in Kyoto’s Kiyamachi area, SUBA quickly became a hotspot thanks to its stylish interior and innovative menu. Next door, SUBA also runs sumi, a wine bar where VIRTUS provided wine consulting.
While the two stores are side by side, they operate independently, so customers had never been able to enjoy both the wine and soba together. VIRTUS’s representative Nakao saw an opportunity to bring the two experiences into one space, allowing customers to explore both in a unique way. This idea led to the opening of VS in Shibuya, a collaboration between VIRTUS and SUBA.
Second Floor: VIRTUS VS
“It all Made Sense”
“It’s not just about soba. SUBA creates innovative and unique dishes, which made me want to collaborate with them,” says Nakao. “The lightness of SUBA’s broth makes it a perfect match for soft, delicate natural wines.”
SUBA’s broth is light and adaptable, transforming completely depending on the toppings and ingredients. This versatility allows it to complement a variety of wines. For example, the ‘Chicken Tempura, Mao Zedong Hot Spice’ soba features flavors of fried garlic and cumin, and holds its own against red wine. Meanwhile, the ‘Akita Local Water Celery and Fried Mochi’ soba pairs beautifully with distinctive orange wine. A single taste is all it takes to understand and appreciate the pairing.
First Image: Chicken Tempura, Mao Zedong’s Hot Spice (Shibuya exclusive) – ¥1,000
Second Image: Akita Local Water Celery and Fried Mochi (Seasonal) – ¥1,500
On the second floor, the VIRTUS VS wine cellar offers over 1,000 varieties of wine from around the world, with a focus on natural wines. Guests can purchase bottles to enjoy on-site or sample over 48 different wines by the glass using an automated dispenser. This system makes it easy for beginners to explore and discover wines they like before choosing a bottle.
Wine servings vary depending on bottle prices, with measurements of 50ml or 30ml clearly labeled on the glass panels. Guests can purchase dispenser coins for ¥550 and simply press a button to pour a serving of their wine of choice.
While wine appreciation is still relatively niche in Japan, soba is widely enjoyed. Nakao hopes that by pairing wine with soba, more people will have the chance to experience and appreciate wine. The introduction of a one-coin dispenser, where guests can enjoy wine for the price of a cup of coffee, combined with the casual experience of standing soba, is a thoughtfully crafted idea aimed at removing the barriers that wine beginners might feel.
VIRTUS also produces its own original wine in collaboration with Spanish, Japanese, and New Zealand winemakers, offering specially curated pairings with SUBA’s soba dishes.
A Space to Return to Over and Over
The space was created by YUSUKE SEKI STUDIO, the same team behind SUBA Kyoto. Unmarked by signs, VS’s glass facade gives it an appearance and ambiance akin to an art gallery or press lounge. Considering the studio’s work on projects like sacai Aoyama and OGAWA COFFEE LABORATORY, the highly refined design is no surprise.
A discreet logo on the far right marks the entrance.
Inside, the industrial-style decor features exposed concrete, gravel-covered flooring, and a wood-framed counter. Despite its minimalist aesthetic, the space exudes warmth and comfort. If you didn’t know better, you’d never guess this was a standing soba shop. However, its modern casual feel aligns perfectly with the vibrant energy of Shibuya and those who gather there.
Concrete tables rest upon a gravel-filled earthen floor.
Whether you visit with friends or drop by solo, the atmosphere is inviting. If a wine catches your eye, don’t hesitate to ask the staff about it. It’s the kind of place where you can casually stop by, chat with the staff, and discover something new, just like your favorite neighborhood shop.
Open until 11:00 PM, VS is perfect for an after-work drink. And instead of ending the evening with the usual late night ramen, why not opt for soba instead? With less salt and oil than ramen, soba is gentler on the stomach, and a lighter option that’s ideal after a night out drinking. Who knows, in addition to being an ideal wine pairing, perhaps soba is also primed to become the new trend for capping off the night.
VS
Address: 1F Miyamasu ON Building, 1-15-8 Shibuya, Tokyo, 150-0002
Hours: 12:00 PM – 11:00 PM
Closed: Irregular holidays
Instagram:
@virtuswine_vs
@subasoba_vs
