Many sweets now considered part of Japan’s traditional confectionery have roots in the West. Castella is a well-known example, and another not to be overlooked is the colorful sugar candy konpeitō.
The oldest record of the candy in Japan dates back to 1569, when the missionary Luís Fróis presented konpeitō to the warlord Oda Nobunaga. At that time, the method of making konpeitō was shrouded in mystery, and it was regarded as an extremely precious sweet enjoyed only by select nobles.
Today, konpeitō is a familiar treat, but the Kyoto-based shop Ryokujuan Shimizu preserves and passes down a refined method that has elevated konpeitō making to a true art form.
The Craft Passed Down from Parent to Child Through Generations
The storefront of Ryokujuan Shimizu
The shop was founded in 1847, near the end of the Edo period, by Senkichi Shimizu, who opened it near Hyakumanben Chion-ji Temple. Although little is known about Senkichi’s background, it’s said he acquired a kettle originally used for another purpose and began making konpeitō with it. At that time, there were no other konpeitō makers in Kyoto, so the process involved much trial and error. The kettle back then was about a quarter the size of those used today, and since everything was done by hand, it took two months to finish a single batch.
The family business was passed down from the second generation, Shotaro, to the third generation, Isamu, through a parent-to-child tradition. When the fourth generation took over, they began experimenting by adding ingredients like fruit to konpeitō, which until then had only been sugar-flavored. Because acids and oils in these ingredients interfere with sugar crystallization, it was a tough challenge. But driven by a passion to create konpeitō that would delight more people, the fourth generation succeeded in crafting colorful konpeitō in a variety of flavors such as cinnamon and rich green tea.
The kettle used by the founder, displayed at the front of Ryokujuan Shimizu.
Today, Yasuhiro Shimizu, the fifth-generation owner, carries on the tradition at the original shop with a commitment to both tradition and innovation. While they now produce around 90 varieties of konpeitō each year, the careful, handmade process has remained the same since the shop’s founding. Driven by a long-held passion to create konpeitō that will be loved by many for years to come, they opened direct stores in Ginza in 2017 and Gion in 2019.
The Konpeitō Legacy That Endured Through Wartime
It wasn’t always a smooth journey to reach where they are today. Though few stories have been passed down, nearly two centuries of history have brought many challenges.
For instance, during the Pacific War, many confectioners faced severe shortages as sugar became nearly impossible to get. Ryokujuan Shimizu was fortunate to be designated a government-approved ration point, which allowed them to secure some sugar. Without this, konpeitō production might have stopped altogether. Back then, work often started around 3 a.m. and went on until about 8 p.m. Because of wartime blackout rules, they had to avoid using lights. Thick empty sugar bags were taped over every window to keep any light from escaping the workshop.
During the war, the third-generation head, Isamu Shimizu, was deployed overseas. Despite facing life-threatening situations when he was wounded by enemy fire in the jaw, he once discovered konpeitō included in his military rations. From its shape, color, and glossy finish, he immediately recognized it as Ryokujuan Shimizu’s. Knowing that the family business was still going strong back home in Kyoto brought him to tears, as he later recalled.
Two Decades to Become a True Artisan
At Ryokujuan Shimizu, the production area is called the workshop and is located just next door to the shop, separated by a single door. Normally closed to visitors, we were given special access to tour the space.
The workshop is about the size of 30 tatami mats. Most of the room is taken up by four large, tilted kettles. Inside, countless konpeitō slowly rise and gently fall as the kettles rotate, creating a sound that resembles the soothing rhythm of ocean waves.
Each kettle is tended by a single craftsman who occasionally stirs the candy with a long-handled tool called a kote, which resembles a hoe, and carefully sprinkles melted syrup over the konpeitō using a metal ladle.
Yasuhiro Shimizu, the fifth-generation artisan, who makes the Floating Watermelon Konpeitō
Tamayo Shimizu, the fifth-generation proprietress, explains:
“Every konpeitō starts with a core called ‘ira-ko,’ which is less than 1 millimeter in size for most varieties. This core is placed into the kettle, and syrup is poured over it while it spins on the heated kettle. Using a long-handled tool called a kote, the mixture is gently loosened and stirred from morning until evening every day. Around the third day, tiny spikes called ‘iga’ begin to form and gradually grow over time. The entire process takes about two weeks.”
Yasuhiro Shimizu, the fifth-generation craftsman, focused on making the red konpeitō. Its color comes from juice extracted from air-grown watermelons, which are grown hanging in the air. This Air-grown Watermelon Konpeitō is a popular summer-only product sold exclusively in July, and it often sells out quickly.
Air-grown watermelon Konpeitō (July release, sales limited to Summer-only)
Each kettle radiates heat at around 200 degrees Celsius, and with all the windows and doors sealed shut, it’s no surprise the workshop is incredibly hot. There’s only one ventilation fan running to provide oxygen for the craftsmen, but it doesn’t let the heat out.
Tamayo Shimizu explained:
“The final quality of konpeitō is highly sensitive to room temperature, humidity, and airflow. If the craftsmen make even a slight miscalculation, the candy can melt or stick together and become ruined. Especially during the upcoming rainy season, controlling humidity becomes very challenging and requires great care. In summer, with recent climate changes, the heat becomes even harsher. Since fans and air conditioners can’t be used, the temperature inside the workshop can rise to nearly 60 degrees Celsius.”
In this harsh environment, the craftsmen rely on their senses, listening to the sound of konpeitō tumbling inside the kettles and carefully observing their condition while adjusting the tilt, rotation speed, and heat of the kettles. It is easy to see why it takes over 20 years to master the craft. Ten years are spent learning to apply the syrup and another ten years perfecting the stirring with the kote tool.
Taking a short break, Yasuhiro Shimizu offered a piece of the nearly finished Air-grown Watermelon Konpeitō. Still slightly warm, its delicate and gentle sweetness made me forget the heat for a moment.
His pride as a konpeitō craftsman shines through in every smile.
Pursuing Perfection with Genuine Dedication
Browsing the products on display, you’re surprised by the variety and realize that konpeitō isn’t always sweet. Take, for example, the Kyoto flagship store’s exclusive Tokusen Tama Arare Konpeitō. It features puffed glutinous rice crackers at its center, with ingredients like Japanese pepper and plum that create a refreshing finish and bring out the matcha’s flavor. Shimizu Tamayo kindly offered me one called Shiso Arare Konpeitō.
The moment you bite into it, a delicious burst of sweetness and saltiness blends perfectly in your mouth.
Inside the shop, a wide variety of konpeitō are on display.
As mentioned earlier, about 90 varieties of konpeitō are produced each year. Among them, a select few known as the Ultimate Konpeitō are famously difficult to make and so popular they often have waiting lists. These special varieties include ingredients like chocolate and alcohol.
Normally, crystallizing chocolate, which is solidified by cooling, on a high-temperature kettle is challenging enough. On top of that, the high fat content requires careful attention to prevent separation. For alcohol, which evaporates when heated, the challenge was to capture the original aroma, richness, and flavor of the sake in each piece. These konpeitō are packed in paulownia or glass boxes and sold by advance reservation only.
Among these ultimate offerings, the pinnacle is the Ultimate Japanese Sake Juyondai Konpeitō. It uses the luxury sake Juyondai from Takagi Shuzo, a brewery founded in 1615, and comes beautifully packaged in a bonbonnière (candy box) crafted by Fukagawa Seiji, a long-established Arita porcelain maker. It is truly a one-of-a-kind masterpiece.
1st image: Beautiful konpeitō made 50 to 80 years ago, preserved in a glass jar
2nd image: Ultimate Japanese Sake Juyondai Konpeitō, a collaboration between three renowned traditional makers. Images courtesy of Ryokujuan Shimizu
When people think of Kyoto’s confectionery shops, they often picture places rooted strictly in tradition. But many are surprisingly innovative. Ryokujuan Shimizu exemplifies this, carrying on and refining traditional techniques while constantly striving to create konpeitō that are truly one of a kind.
Ryokujuan Shimizu (Kyoto Main Store)
Address: 38-2 Yoshida Izumidono-cho, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto 606-8301
Hours: 10:00 AM – 5:00 PM
Closed: Wednesdays (if a public holiday, closed the following weekday)
Website: https://www.konpeito.co.jp
Instagram: @ryokujuanshimizu
