In Japan, there are coffee shops that are dedicated to exploring the art of home roasting raw coffee beans, and using the hand-drip method to extract maximum flavor. In this series, we’ll be taking you on a journey to discover these exceptional places, where the passionate philosophy of the shop owners adds an extra layer of flavor. For the seventh chapter, we visit the Sendagi neighborhood, a favorite with international visitors. Beyond a doorway that blends into the old-town scenery, a refined counter-style café offers an unforgettable coffee experience.
PROFILE
Born in Tokyo in 1991, Eiji Dobashi began his career at BLENZ COFFEE and Paul Bassett before helping to launch GLITCH COFFEE & ROASTERS in Jimbocho. In December 2020, he opened his own café, Ignis, in Sendagi, and added a second location in Kamakura in January 2023. Eiji also travels internationally to give demonstrations and share his expertise.
The Art of Coffee with Rare Beans
Sendagi, Tokyo, is a neighborhood once favored by Meiji-era literary figures. Just off Shinobazu Street, winding through narrow back alleys, is Yomise Dori, a shopping street lined with traditional shops. Passing signs that mix old and new, Japanese and Western styles, I headed toward Ignis. Across from a dry cleaner that looks like a set from the Showa era, the coffee shop stands out with its soft mauve-pink exterior. The café is famous for handling auction pieces priced over 10,000 yen per shot and had been on my list ever since I started this series. Before immersing myself in the meticulous, artful craft of a master barista, I chose to first taste a cup that challenges conventional expectations, ordering the Omakase listed at the top of the menu.
1st image: The café features a variety of rare coffees, and the Omakase tasting flight is a favorite.
2nd image: The medical bottle-inspired design is particularly eye-catching.
The Omakase menu offers three options: Standard, Unique, and Top of Top. Whichever you choose, the course allows you to compare two to three varieties tailored to your preferences and the season. This time, I went with Top of Top, which features only the finest beans. As soon as I placed my order, the barista selected Panama’s Geisha from the row of bottles on the counter. This rare coffee has been making waves in the specialty coffee scene and consistently fetches high prices at international auctions. It is said to combine fruity notes with exquisitely balanced acidity, leaving lingering hints of jasmine and bergamot.
Every movement feels like a ritual honoring the coffee.
The roasting is naturally light, designed to highlight the beans’ delicate characteristics. Before grinding the carefully picked beans already stored in bottles, Eiji checks their aroma. “Even a single bean that’s out of harmony can change the flavor,” he explains. After grinding the beans with the Mahlkönig EK43, he checks the aroma once more before finally beginning the drip.
The special device that slides a sphere to control the drip adds to the sense of anticipation.
From the neatly arranged array of tools on the counter, Eiji chose a Hario dripper to match the characteristics of the beans. It sits on a special stand, the Australian-made PARAGON. “The aroma of coffee begins to escape as steam the moment hot water is poured. By passing the liquid through a cooled gold sphere before it reaches the server, we capture the richest flavors that appear immediately after pouring,” he explains.
Even with the latest coffee machines, he believes a hands-on approach can convey greater sincerity.
Since the cooled sphere naturally lowers the liquid’s temperature, he slides it at just the right moment to maintain the ideal heat. The clear water, poured at around 92 degrees Celsius, is transformed through this process into a fragrant, full-bodied coffee. Served in a lidded whiskey glass, its refined taste leaves a lasting, elegant impression.
1st image: The lidded whiskey glass is also part of the setup for savoring the aroma.
2nd image: The coffee amazake was served in a Tenmoku chawan, a tea bowl that requires advanced skill to use.
Next, the Colombian Infuse was brewed using the same drip method. Exuding tropical aromas reminiscent of passion fruit, it was served in a cognac glass. The narrow mouth and tulip-shaped, rounded bowl increase the surface area exposed to air, allowing the aroma to fully develop.
While guests admired the glass, Eiji quickly prepared his original coffee amazake. Ethiopian beans with chocolate-like richness and fruity acidity were extracted as espresso, then mixed with amazake diluted in milk and heated with a steamer. Finally, espresso grounds were sprinkled on top to layer sweetness and depth. The drink finished with a subtle, lingering hint of koji, hinting at the coffee’s untapped possibilities.
The Top of Top order includes these three varieties and costs 3,500 yen.
Retro Charm Blended with a Modern Edge in a Downtown Setting
After experiencing Eiji’s coffee, which felt almost magical, it is fascinating to trace the path that shaped his unparalleled creativity. Going back a quarter of a century, he recalls being deeply absorbed in games and anime as a boy. During that time, his passion for his favorite characters and worlds was heavily shaped by other fervent hobbyists in those circles, who showed him what it meant to dig deep and devote yourself wholeheartedly.
Eiji Dobashi reflects on his journey through the coffee world before starting his own shop.
By high school, his focus gradually shifted to coffee. At the same time, he dreamed of becoming a pâtissier, which led him at 17 to take a part-time job at Starbucks. While Starbucks is now largely automated, the store where Eiji worked required him to pull espresso shots by hand. That experience unexpectedly revealed the depth and complexity of coffee. Determined to pursue it as a career immediately after graduation, he nevertheless followed his parents’ wishes and enrolled in university. His passion only grew stronger, and a year later he decided to drop out.
He says that by leaving no way to turn back, he was able to truly devote himself to coffee.
Around the time when latte art streamers were creating a buzz and Japan’s coffee scene was transforming, Eiji worked to hone his latte art skills at the Canadian chain BLENZ COFFEE. As he developed a deeper appreciation for the flavors of black coffee, he moved on to the Australian brand Paul Bassett, known for producing world barista champions. After three years as a barista, he was invited by his former boss to join the opening team of a new coffee shop, which became the acclaimed GLITCHI COFFEE & ROASTERS in Jimbocho. After five years as its manager, he decided to strike out on his own, wanting to express his vision fully and freely.
The café’s name, Ignis, comes from the Latin word for fire.
Eiji set out to open his café in the midst of the COVID-19 pandemic. “Coffee is, at its core, just a brown liquid,” he says. “Its appearance doesn’t change much, so I wanted to offer rare, exceptional flavors in a way that would create a memorable experience. A counter-style café, like a sushi bar, seemed perfect for sharing the stories of the coffee producers directly with customers.”
Instead of relying solely on online listings, he visited the Sendagi area repeatedly in search of the right spot. By chance, the pandemic led him to a former long-established sushi shop that fit his vision perfectly. In December 2020, Ignis finally opened its doors.
The shop has been transformed into a space that honors the history of the old sushi shop while showcasing the future of coffee.
When it opened, the café quickly drew attention within the industry for focusing on rare and innovative lots from small-scale farms. One of these was the 10,000-yen auction coffee mentioned earlier. “Even if the price seems high for coffee, if the experience is unique and satisfying, it elevates the value of the coffee itself. It also contributes to the farms and producers from a fair-trade perspective,” Eiji explains.
With his vision clear, he aimed to expand his movement quickly. In 2023, he opened a second location in Kamakura. As his team grew, Eiji developed a way to avoid wasting brewed coffee during staff training, which eventually became the café’s signature coffee jelly. Using spherical molds typically found in bars, he created globe-shaped jellies that shimmer in cocktail glasses. Beyond their striking appearance, the luxurious flavor made from rare specialty coffee has made them popular with customers of all ages.
1st image: When you order the Omakase course, you can add the café’s signature coffee jelly for an extra 200 yen.
2nd image: The showcase, highlighting only rare beans, is designed like a luxury cosmetics display.
The café operates from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., but responding to requests from coffee lovers who wanted to visit after work, it opens late on full moon nights. Even the romantic touch of waiting for the moon’s cycle is part of what draws people to this place.
The takeout cups feature illustrations by a regular, capturing both Ignis and the neighborhood. It’s a small detail that shows how cherished the café is by the local community.
Ignis
Address: 3-44-11 Sendagi, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo
instagram : @igniscoffee
COFFEE
Roast level: Light to medium-dark
Roaster: aillio 1kg
Grinder: Mahlkönig EK43
Brewing method: Paper / Hario dripper on PARAGON stand
Varieties: 7–8 single-origin coffees only
Cups: Original ceramic ware, vintage teaware, and glassware
