Exquisite Autumn Tea Aboard the Orient Express at Hakone ‘Emoa Terrace by Onkochishin’

Some may be surprised to learn that an Orient Express exists in Hakone. Its walls and lighting were designed in 1928 by the legendary French glass artist René Lalique. This is the actual salon car of PULLMAN 1ère CLASSE NO.4158, which originally ran as the Côte d’Azur Express between Paris and southern France and later served as the Nostalgie Istanbul Orient Express from 1976 to 2001. At Hakone Emoa Terrace by Onkochishin, this extraordinary train has been transformed into a tea salon. Step inside, and it feels as if time itself has paused.

As is well known, the Orient Express was a long-distance sleeper train that carried the romance of countless travelers across Europe. Its so-called golden age, from the 1920s to the 1930s, made it a symbol of luxury travel for royalty, politicians, and celebrities around the world. The car now stationed at Hakone Emoa Terrace is from that very era, its presence made all the more striking by 156 glass reliefs crafted by René Lalique that gleam with elegance.

Titled Statues and Grapes, these works are composed in sets of three, each featuring male and female figures in different poses alongside bountiful grapes, representing a festival dedicated to Bacchus, the god of wine. The frosted glass reliefs seem to glow with a serene light, an effect achieved through a mirrored backing coated with silver.

In this exquisitely designed interior, where every detail exudes luxury, guests can enjoy an original blend of tea accompanied by a dessert tea set. This autumn, the set features a seasonal rare cheesecake made with cream cheese and yogurt, accented with the fresh flavors of persimmons, pears, figs, and grapes. The cups, saucers, and silverware are all original pieces from the Orient Express, making for a captivating tea experience that feels like you’re right in an era of the past.

For those who want to take in the autumn colors from a bright, open terrace, the limited-edition sweets at Restaurant Emoa are a must. Pommes Enchantées features apples atop rum-soaked fruit and cream, finished with Calvados-sautéed apples. The antique-pink Fig and Rhubarb Tart delivers a dramatic interplay of sweet and tart flavors. The Gouda Rich Chiffon is a rich chiffon infused with Gouda cheese, topped with roasted persimmons for a subtle smoky note. Together, these treats let you savor the season’s bounty alongside the fleeting beauty of autumn leaves.

All photos courtesy of Hakone Emoa Terrace by Onkochishin

Hakone Emoa Terrace
Address: 186-1 Sengokuhara, Hakone-machi, Ashigarashimo-gun, Kanagawa
Official Website: https://emoa.by-onko-chishin.com/

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Takako Kabasawa

Takako Kabasawa is a Creative Director who specializes in writing and editing for women's magazines and books, as well as corporate concept work and branding. She is well-versed in Japanese culture, including kimono and tea ceremony, as well as regional handcraft cultures. In 2023, inspired by the world of fashion, she co-founded the brand KOTOWA with three friends to bring a fashionable approach to enjoying kimono. https://www.k-regalo.info/

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