In Japan, listening bars have become a distinct part of late-night culture, with origins dating back to the 1950s. Decades later, they continue to thrive, offering a haven for audiophiles and discerning drinkers. In OFF THE RECORD, we explore establishments where music and atmosphere are central, uncovering the stories, people, and sounds that define them. Our eighth edition takes us to Azabu-Juban where we find BAR FORTIFIED, a place to venture into the world of fortified wines all while seeped in nostalgic charm.
Azabu-Juban is known for its understated downtown character, a neighborhood where east quietly meets west. Just a short walk from the station, along a calmer street off the main strip, stands BAR FORTIFIED. Run by owner Tomoyuki Soga, the bar occupies the seventh floor, and guests are buzzed up like they are being let into a secret. Stepping inside feels like stumbling upon a hideaway where time moves at the pace of a flickering candle. Dim amber bulbs cast a glow over the worn textures of wooden furniture, harmonizing with the warmth of nostalgic Japanese pop records from the seventies and eighties spinning on analog gear.
BAR FORTIFIED sets itself apart with its focus on fortified wines, a rarity in Japan’s bar landscape. Guests can explore the depth, flavor, and versatility of sherry, Madeira, port, and more. It is a haven for fortified wine lovers, but equally a gateway for those simply curious. The extensive selection includes pure pours as well as original cocktails and reimagined classics crafted using sherry and Madeira as a base. It is a bar where tradition is closely held, yet fresh ideas quietly unfold.
Discovering Sherry and Carving Out a Niche
Tomoyuki Soga, owner and sole bartender
Born and raised in Tokyo, Tomoyuki always had a love for food and drinks. After completing school, he dove into the hospitality industry, working in bars and restaurants with the goal of one day going independent. He learned everything from running a bar to mixology to customer service. It was during this period that he encountered sherry for the first time, though his initial impression was terrible. “When a senior colleague at a restaurant recommended Fino to me, the first sherry I ever tried, I thought it tasted bad. But I couldn’t understand why something that tasted bad was so popular around the world, and that made me want to dig deeper.”
That curiosity led him to Sherry Club, a bar in Ginza specializing in sherry, where the Fino he drank was completely different. “In reality, temperature control and the way you drink it are essential for sherry. But because fortified wines aren’t very well known in Japan, that wasn’t widely understood. There are many sommeliers in Japan, but very few who specialize in fortified wines. I thought that could be an opportunity.” He went on to work at Sherry Club for eight years, developing a deep understanding of fortified wines. The experience laid the foundation for his own vision and brought him closer to opening a place of his own.
When finding a location, he had considered Yotsuya and Kagurazaka, but a newly built property in Azabu-Juban became available at the perfect moment. The neighborhood’s quieter character, sitting slightly apart from the larger entertainment districts, felt ideal for the classic and calm space he wanted to create. In the end, the area’s mix of old and new, and the large international population made it even easier for the bar’s focus on fortified wines to be understood and welcomed. After meticulous planning and execution, BAR FORTIFIED opened its doors in 2019.
A Timeless Space Made to Measure
Upon entering BAR FORTIFIED, a single bar counter stretches across the room, offering just enough space for ten seats. The interior features wooden furniture finished in a deep varnish, complemented by stained glass style windows, illuminated glassware, and softly glowing bulbs that create a warm and intimate atmosphere. With Tomoyuki’s careful sense of design, the space evokes a natural sense of nostalgia without feeling overly antique.
“I like old Western-style bars and hotels, and I wanted to create that kind of atmosphere, something timeless and quietly elegant. I used a lot of wood because I wanted warmth, and the stained-glass windows were chosen to give a little color and softness to the space,” Tomoyuki explains. He was meticulous about bringing his vision to life. He measured the space himself, gave detailed instructions, and had elements custom made. Record jackets also became a reference point in the design. The tabletop’s tiled surface was cut to the exact dimensions of a record sleeve, and the shelves and spacing were designed around the same measurements.
Scattered around the bar are small objects that reflect Tomoyuki’s personal interests, from figurines, scale models of Taro Okamoto’s Tower of the Sun, nostalgic pop culture posters, and literary books. Rather than decorating for effect, he places things that matter to him, creating a space that feels curated and lived in.
Sound with Purpose, Records with Intention
The sound system at BAR FORTIFIED is thoughtfully assembled, featuring two Audio-Technica turntables, a Denon amplifier, and a pair of JBL bookshelf speakers neatly positioned behind the counter. The music fills the room gently, fully present but never overpowering the conversations or the moment. Rather than aiming for visual spectacle or high-impact sound, it’s a fitting setup that prioritizes balance, warmth, and intimacy.
Lining the shelves are over 500 records, mostly from the 1970s and ’80s. When selecting what to play each evening, Tomoyuki explains, “I choose based on my mood and the atmosphere, and also the preferences of the customers such as artists mentioned in conversation.” You might hear city pop, classics from idols, or even newer music that aligns with the bar’s ambiance. “I like Kirinji, it’s not very old, but fits well in the bar, so I play it often. I like Spitz too, but it doesn’t quite fit the current atmosphere yet. I feel it should be ‘aged’ a bit, maybe in 10 years I’ll play it here? For some reason, newer music like Fujii Kaze and King Gnu sometimes fits better too,” he says while detailing his selection process. Never selected at random but always with intention, the music, for him, becomes an extension of hospitality, part of the ambiance and a quiet expression of his own tastes.
Some of Tomoyuki’s personal favorites, including Yōsui Inoue’s Kōri no Sekai, Utada Hikaru’s First Love, Kozo Murashita’s Hatsukoi, and Kirinji’s Fine. The tabletop surface is composed of wooden cutouts, each crafted to the dimensions of a record sleeve.
The World of Fortified Wines
Akin to his approach to music, Tomoyuki handles drinks with careful attention, balancing depth with approachability. Delving into fortified wines can feel daunting, as the range of flavors is wide. The most popular, sherry, offers taste profiles from dry to sweet and has the largest selection here. For those unsure where to start, the menu provides recommendations and tasting notes for the three main types of fortified wines: sherry, Madeira, and port. Tasting sets are also available for newcomers, making for an ideal starting point.
A selection of sherry, Madeira, and port, each with its own distinct hue and flavor profile.
He explains, “Because of the name ‘fortified wine,’ many people mistakenly think it is very strong and shy away. In reality, the alcohol content is only around 15–22%, so it’s not extreme. Compared to brewed beverages like wine or beer, it is easier on the stomach, and its taste and aroma can be gentle and enjoyable. That’s why I hope more people will be open to giving it a try.” As conversations develop, he may introduce vintage bottles and deeper recommendations, giving both enthusiasts and novices a chance to explore the rich world of fortified wines.
The cocktail menu features reimagined classics and original creations, with menus available in both Japanese and English.
Inventive Sips and Reimagined Classics
For those not seeking straight pours, the menu also offers a large selection of sherry and Madeira based cocktails. Classic drinks are reimagined, such as the KUROMOJI Negroni made with sherry vermouth as the base, or the ESPRESSO PX Martini made with Pedro Ximénez sherry brandy, orujo, and espresso. Alongside are Tomoyuki’s original creations including the award-winning FALSTAFF which was inspired by a sherry-loving character in a red outfit from Shakespeare’s The Merry Wives of Windsor and Henry IV. Tomoyuki embraces the process of remaking classics or creating original cocktails, noting how using sherry completely changes the taste and yields something unique. “There are no precedents or recipes to follow, but the ingredients themselves are suitable for cocktails and work well with other components.”
The award-winning FALSTAFF. The second image shows the award proudly displayed on the back wall.
Though less commonly ordered, whiskey, beer, and standard offerings are available as well. Regardless of the drink, Tomoyuki approaches each one with meticulous thought and precision, from conception to execution. “When a classic cocktail is ordered, I put extra effort into making it. But the ultimate goal is for people to think everything they drink here is tasty. Even a beer is poured with care and precision.”
The Andalusian Coffee is a spectacle. Sherry brandy is gently heated over a candle using a warming stand, then ignited to intensify its aroma. While the flame is still dancing, hot coffee is poured directly into the glass, capturing the caramelized notes created by the fire before a layer of cream is added on top.
Sharing Passions Through Experiences
In many ways, the bar feels like an extension of Tomoyuki himself, as his eclectic interests manifest throughout the space. This is evident not just in his musical selections and love of fortified wines, but also in the visual clues scattered throughout, and the experiences offered. As a kabuki enthusiast, what reflects him most clearly are the collaborative kabuki events he hosts with a writer he knows personally. Together, they run talk sessions and design original cocktails based on specific kabuki characters, translating theatrical expression into flavor and making it tangible. These gatherings draw people who share an appreciation for things shaped by human craft, from traditional arts and storytelling to drinks like sherry that reveal time and intention. For Tomoyuki, whether it is kabuki or fortified wines, culture is not something to be explained but experienced, through taste, conversation and atmosphere. In that shared experience, he finds that what he values, the patience, craft and human hand behind tradition, quietly resonates with others too.
A selection of cards from past events, each outlining an original cocktail and the Kabuki character that inspired it.
Bar Fortified stands as a reminder of what becomes possible when a personal passion is pursued and given room to take shape. It appeals not by casting a wide net, but by honing in and offering something authentic and carefully made. It’s a testament to the boundless possibilities. “I think it’s possible to do something niche and specialize because there are many other bars around. There’s an environment in Tokyo that allows anything,” Tomoyuki says on BAR FORTIFIED’s place in the current scene. In that openness, his bar finds its footing and expresses its full character, offering fortified wines, a natural sense of nostalgia through music and ambiance, and a sincerity that lingers long after the glass is empty.
BAR FORTIFIED
Address: CIMA Azabujuban 007, 1-9-11 Azabujuban, Minato City, Tokyo 106-0045, Japan
Business Hours: 4:00 PM – 2:00 AM (last entry at 1:00 AM)
Closed: Mondays
Phone: +81 3-6277-8523
Instagram: @bar_fortified
