In Japan, listening bars have become a distinct part of late-night culture, with origins dating back to the 1950s. Decades later, they continue to thrive, offering a haven for audiophiles and discerning drinkers. In OFF THE RECORD, we explore establishments where music and atmosphere are central, uncovering the stories, people, and sounds that define them. In our seventh edition, we head to Yutenji to visit SMOKIN’ FISH RECORDS, a record shop and bar built on a devotion to music and an uncompromising sense of sound.
Just a minute’s walk from Yutenji Station along the Toyoko Line, a narrow staircase sits tucked between a Matsuya and a pachinko parlor. It’s easy to miss, though the Jimi Hendrix artwork outside catches the eye. Three floors up is SMOKIN’ FISH RECORDS, a cozy, unpretentious space where music takes the lead and sound reigns supreme. Under the warm glow of amber lights, this record shop and bar offers a thoughtfully curated range of UK and US pressed vinyl, making it easy to find a new favorite or rediscover a classic. The sound system is a major draw, custom tuned to bring out the full depth and warmth of each recording and capture the music as it was meant to be heard. The bar area invites guests to settle in, enjoy a glass of wine or spirits, and trade stories with owner Kaya Ogawa, the traveler, guitarist, and audio craftsman behind its creation.
Music of the 80s to Life on the Road
Growing up, Kaya describes himself as a very strange kid who never quite fit in. While most people gravitated toward mid-80s J-pop, he was drawn to blues and rock, captivated by their storytelling and countercultural spirit. “Robert Johnson, The Rolling Stones, Led Zeppelin, that was my world,” he says. Through radio and music programs, he became fascinated with global sounds. He vividly remembers the 1985 Live Aid benefit concert, and saw stars like Madonna, David Bowie, and Bob Dylan at their peak. He even taught himself guitar without lessons, driven by passion.
In his twenties, he left Japan for New Orleans. “It’s was so amazing. It’s like the Mecca of music. Not only jazz, reggae, or blues, but everything. The town has a rhythm,” recalling the city’s vibrant musical culture. He then traveled across Europe, busking just to get by, making connections, and exploring live music scenes. Though a whirlwind, these years on the road honed his artistry as a slide guitarist, taught him English, and shaped the free-spirited approach that now defines him.
Not one to call himself a singer, Kaya plays slide guitar, drawn to its vocal-like tone. He’s always been a solo artist and cites Ry Cooder as a key influence in his own musical journey.
Kaya eventually returned to Japan, spending time in Okinawa exploring its music while continuing to travel, perform, and release four solo albums. By the mid-2000s, as music shifted to digital formats, selling CDs on tour became difficult, and he returned to cooking, a parallel passion. For over a decade he ran his own Italian restaurant, which also played vinyl records. However, when the pandemic shook the hospitality industry, Kaya made the bold decision to return to music in a new form, creating SMOKIN’ FISH RECORDS, a base to share his love of music and analog sound. With the resurgence of vinyl and people spending more time at home, the timing was perfect.
A Place for Music Lovers
The record shop and bar was originally opened in Yokohama and relocated to Yutenji in mid-2025. It’s a place for music lovers to hear great records and experience the best possible sound. As you walk in, on the left are rows of vinyl records in wooden boxes, all categorized clearly. To the right is the wooden bar counter, and an open space where the main speakers sit for listening and instruments are placed for live music. “I designed everything by myself, I was like a carpenter,” Kaya says with a laugh as he recalls the early days of scouring Pinterest for inspiration, sourcing furniture and fixtures, and spending months putting it all together.
Operating as a record store and bar, plus music studio, the space’s design prioritizes acoustics. While the bar area is small, it doesn’t feel cramped, with room for music to flow through the air, and plywood is heavily incorporated for its sound-absorbing qualities. The vintage, wood-clad interior echoes classic rock spaces, and exudes a welcoming, cozy atmosphere.
Meticulous Tuning for Full Potential
The layout is centered on the sound system which features JBL 4312XP speakers known for their forward sound, strong midrange, and powerful bass. They’re paired with a vacuum tube amplifier to fill the room warmly with detail. On the turntables, Kaya uses his own SFR Custom Shure M44 cartridges, modified versions of the legendary Shure design, fine-tuned for richer tones and a fuller, more dynamic feel. The result altogether is an intimate, immersive sound that draws you in, as if you’re in a 1960s studio with the musicians right there. Visitors are often impressed to learn that he tuned it all himself, and this self taught ability came purely out of love for music and studying daily. A lifetime spent learning about sound and analog equipment has enabled Kaya to maintain and refine the same equipment for over thirty years. The aim here is to present music in the best way possible, recreating the texture and warmth of the eras in which it was recorded.
To showcase the sound system, Kaya spun Sade’s “Smooth Operator” and Lou Reed’s “Walk on the Wild Side,” each track unfolding with a rich dynamic range that highlighted the texture of the vocals and the nuance of every instrument.
Sharing Great Music at it’s Best
When asked about his passion for analog gear and vinyl, Kaya responds, “If you compare vinyl to digital sounds, it’s like a different planet.” Sharing great music with others is a passion that’s enhanced when the music can be heard at its best. With this in mind, SMOKIN’ FISH RECORDS solely focuses on records pressed in the UK or US. Kaya explains that “Records pressed in the UK or US have a completely different cutting level,” which results in louder dynamic sound, with a wider range of frequencies. It’s a sign of his dedication to the best audio experience.
Kaya also sells bespoke equipment and complete turntable setups for those who want superior setups at home. Pictured are Custom phono EQs for M44, and turntables with custom Shure M44 cartridges.
With more than 10,000 records in the inventory, a carefully curated selection is kept available in the store. While not a massive retailer, SMOKIN’ FISH RECORDS offers a selection chosen with intention. There’s a focus on rock and blues, but the shelves span a wide range of genres such as reggae, RnB pop, with rare and unexpected finds. For those unsure of where to start, the Masterpiece section highlights some of Kaya’s personal recommendations, selected for their sound quality, composition, and character.
The Super Rare Item section which includes pricier gems, alongside Kaya’s Masterpieces selection.
Another highlight of SMOKIN’ FISH RECORDS is that customers can listen to records on the loudspeakers before buying them. There’s no headphones lying around as Kaya is always happy to play records for customers so they can experience the music properly. It’s part of the warm hospitality and also part of Kaya’s stance that sound needs air to flow through in order to be heard best.
The Real Mojito is always an easy choice, perfectly fitting the bar’s atmosphere. Menus are made from old record jackets, and Kaya’s original releases are also available. Pictured is his 2011 blues album, Open the Door.
Improvised Sound and A Simple Menu
Running the entire shop and bar on his own, Kaya is usually found behind the counter, making drinks and curating the night’s records. He adjusts to the people, weather, and mood with a deep musical knowledge and an extensive selection at hand. There’s no set playlists or particular themes, and Kaya sees it almost like improv. The bar also holds live music events at times, including with international guests which are often small intimate sessions.
As guests take in the music and share stories, the bar offers a small but solid lineup of drinks to fuel the evening. There’s a range of spirits, wines, and standard options, nothing too elaborate, as Kaya explains he doesn’t consider himself a bartender. His approach keeps things simple and approachable so that the music remains the focus. One standout, however, is The Real Mojito, said to be a favorite of Hemingway and made with fresh mint. It’s a refreshing drink Kaya serves simply because he thought it was stylish. Altogether, Kaya’s easygoing hospitality and drinks on ice mix seamlessly with the musical selections drifting above the faint crackle of vinyl.
The name comes from a piece of artwork gifted to him by Tokyo-based visual artist and friend Ponzi. It depicts a flying fish with a cigarette in its mouth, playfully reflecting Kaya’s free-spirited nature and his years spent traversing the world.
SMOKIN’ FISH RECORDS is more than just a record store and bar; it’s a place that tells a story of Kaya’s travels, challenges, and his lifelong pursuit of music. The thoughtful curation of records and the immersive audio make it a place worth returning for drinks and records time and time again. Here, Kaya’s free-spirited nature and deep love of music combine with a craftsman’s devotion to sound, resulting in an experience that exudes passion, centers on music, and truly satisfies the ears.
SMOKIN' FISH RECORDS
3F Aono Building, 2-2-7 Yutenji, Meguro, Tokyo 153-0052
Website：https://www.smokinfishguitars.com/
Instagram：@smokinfish_records
