In Japan, listening bars have become a distinct part of late-night culture, with origins dating back to the 1950s. Decades later, they continue to thrive, offering a haven for audiophiles and discerning drinkers. In OFF THE RECORD, we explore establishments where music and atmosphere are central, uncovering the stories, people, and sounds that define them. In our sixth edition, we venture into Kyodo to visit NEAR MINT TOKYO. A restaurant that tells a story of experiences and cultures, and where New American cuisine shines alongside global grooves.
Kyodo is known for its quiet, residential atmosphere, but has been gaining a reputation for local gems. Just a short walk from the station down the shopping street is NEAR MINT TOKYO. It is run by Masaru Watanabe, a multifaceted chef with a passion for music and community. The New American restaurant serves inventive fusion cuisine, drinks to match, and superb sound to soundtrack the experience.
A Story of New Experiences, Flavors, and Sounds
After university, Masaru trained for four years as a French chef before heading to New York in 2008, where he immersed himself in the city’s food scene and music culture. Back in Japan, he pursued a vision of blending music and dining, joining Blue Note Tokyo to explore the idea further. After he gained diverse insights and experience at a range of establishments.
Masaru Watanabe
He later returned to New York to help launch a listening bar, though the plan stalled. He went on to work at an oyster bar and supervised a specialty baumkuchen shop. During these five years, he also discovered the transformative power of high-quality sound systems that made even familiar songs feel completely new. Just as a promising property for the listening bar emerged, the COVID-19 pandemic forced him back to Japan.
He joined SG club in 2020, starting in the kitchen while deepening his knowledge of cocktails. All these experiences shaped his approach to music, cuisine, and hospitality, laying the foundation for his own venture, NEAR MINT TOKYO.
Past Inspirations and The Warm Appeal of Kyodo
Rather than opening in a busy commercial district, Masaru looked for a neighborhood with growth potential and a strong sense of community. A friend recommended a coffee shop in Kyodo, where he first got a feel for the area. “I chose a place that I thought was going to become lively in the future. I really liked the relaxed atmosphere of this shopping street. There’s a nice mix of long-standing family-run shops alongside newer establishments,” he explains.
The balance of old and new, calm yet quietly vibrant, made Kyodo the perfect home for NEAR MINT TOKYO. The name itself comes from record-collecting culture, where “near mint” describes vinyl that isn’t brand new but still holds its value and charm. For Masaru, it reflects the restaurant’s spirit: not polished to perfection, but warm, human, and full of stories.
When it came to designing the interior, Masaru focused on what he personally liked, drawing inspiration from flea markets visits. That personal touch shows in the mix of vintage furniture, an open kitchen with a diner-style counter, and small details like trinkets and artwork. The concept blends American and European influences. “When I was in the U.S., I often visited French and Italian restaurants. Their sensibilities really matched my taste. I wanted to pair European-style tables and chairs with an industrial space.” Each piece was handpicked during trips to Osaka and Fukuoka.
There’s thought in even the smallest details. The dried flowers, for example, come from a friend’s shop in Gōtokuji called 8 1/2, which sells both records and flowers. For Masaru, every element of the rustic, classic charm connects back to his travels and the people in his life.
Soundscapes Tuned for Conversation
As you step inside NEAR MINT TOKYO, your eyes are drawn to the vintage JBL 4320s suspended from shelves near the ceiling, their presence striking even from outside. But it is the sound that really defines the space: warm, clear, and powerful, yet never overpowering conversation. Tuned with a McIntosh C28 preamplifier and MC-2500 power amplifier, the music flows effortlessly in the background, shaping the atmosphere without demanding attention.
Masaru imagined a restaurant where music felt as natural as conversation. “Bars and cafes are for focusing on music while enjoying drinks,” he explains. “A restaurant is different. You are here to eat and talk. The sound has to be gentle enough that even right in front of a speaker, you can still converse comfortably.” The result is a space where everyone is welcome, from families with small children to diners with dogs.
Masaru curates the music from his iPad, blending genres to match the rhythm of the restaurant. After the last orders, he often turns to vinyl, carefully selecting records to set the evening’s mood. His collection of around 500 records, gathered both in New York and Japan, spans Latin jazz, Brazilian music, modern soul, gospel, funk, ambient, and hip hop. Each record carries a story, weaving a personal soundtrack that fills the space.
Blending Global Flavors through New American Creativity
Much like the music, the cuisine here is a melting pot shaped by Masaru’s time in New York, where he first encountered New American cuisine. On his 2008 visit, he noticed that many in Japan saw American food as just hamburgers or meatloaf. “When you actually go there, the scene is constantly evolving,” he says. By his return in 2015, flavors and techniques had already shifted dramatically. Back in Japan, he wanted to introduce these contemporary tastes to local diners.
“It’s so diverse and delicious, yet few chefs in Japan are doing New American cuisine. I felt it deserved more recognition.” His approach was especially inspired by chef Jean-Georges, whose dishes blend French techniques with Asian and Middle Eastern flavors. “The first U.S. restaurant I visited was his, and it had a huge impact on me. Everything from the food to wine pairings, interior, and staff uniforms was coordinated.”
Panipuri Guacamole ¥770 (tax included)
An inventive dish featuring Indian panipuri street snacks filled with Mexican guacamole and drizzled with hot sauce.
Diving into New American came naturally as Masaru’s career has focused on creating original dishes. At Blue Note Tokyo, he worked under a Kyoto-born chef who combined French techniques with local vegetables and Japanese elements, reinforcing his drive to innovate.
At NEAR MINT TOKYO, his New American style merges French, Latin American, and Middle Eastern influences into inventive seasonal dishes. “The most popular dish is probably the squid ink fried gnocchi. It’s kneaded with squid ink and then fried,” Masaru explains, while going over the menu. Designed to be enjoyed like a snack, it’s a dish many customers savor casually.
Squid Ink Fried Gnocchi ¥990 (tax included)
Drinks complement the food with the same thoughtful approach, whether it’s white or orange wine or the restaurant’s original beer that was developed to complement the cuisine. For the original NMT beer, “We used Nepalese Timur pepper, which has a passion-fruit-like aroma, to create a fragrant spice beer,” he says. The beverage program also extends to a wide selection of domestic gins, reflecting the same care and attention that defines the food.
NEAR MINT TOKYO’s original beer and domestic gins.
An Underground Hub for Music and Creative Connection
Another distinctive feature is the basement space known as NIKEMERIO. Tucked away beneath the restaurant, it feels almost secret, like stumbling upon a hidden club. The bunker-like room is outfitted with its own powerful audio system, the walls and artwork washed in fluorescent red light. It is raw and underground yet undeniably chic, a contrast to the restaurant above but in line with the vision.
The inspiration came from his time in the U.S., where basements often doubled as storage or gathering spots. “This building had a basement too, but at first, I thought it would be difficult to use, so it was just for storage. Over time, as the audio equipment grew, I realized we could set up another sound system, so we renovated the basement and it all came together.” There’s no air-con for Summer events, but in cooler seasons there’s been live shows and video projections. Even a DJ from Germany played there.
Visiting musicians are often friends of Masaru, but others, like the German DJ, found the space through Instagram. “At one point, our Instagram followers abroad increased, and we even had guests from Chile and the U.S.,” he says. What began as a storage room has quietly transformed into an intimate, international hub for music lovers, and Masaru plans to hold more events there over time. Here, the glow of the lights, the thrum of the speakers, and the connection of the people combine into something unforgettable.
The trap door leading into NIKEMERO
NEAR MINT TOKYO embodies many ideas, blending nostalgia with fresh, creative takes on the classic. When asked how he balances it all, Masaru sees music, food, and drinks as part of the same creative spectrum. “For me, it’s all approached in the same way. Whether it’s food, drinks, or music, there’s a sense of a vibrant introduction, a middle section, and a lingering finish,” he explains.
At NEAR MINT TOKYO, music, food, and drinks mesh into one experience, each shaping and enhancing the other. Masaru’s years of travel, learning, and connection come together, as he weaves tradition with experimentation. From exploring New York’s evolving culinary scene to learning the subtleties of mixology and expanding his knowledge of music and audio equipment, there is inspiration, experience, and intention behind every detail. The space becomes more than a restaurant; it is a meeting point for cultures and ideas, a place where people gather, share, and discover together.
NEAR MINT TOKYO
Address：3-19-1 Miyasaka, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo 156-0051, Japan
Instagram：@near_mint_tokyo_
