In Japan, there are coffee shops that are dedicated to exploring the art of home roasting raw coffee beans, and using the hand-drip method to extract maximum flavor. In this series, we’ll be taking you on a journey to discover these exceptional places, where the passionate philosophy of the shop owners adds an extra layer of flavor. In this chapter, we visit Cafe IZUMI in Funabashi, Chiba. There, we meet a self-taught coffee devotee with the mind and approach of a researcher.
PROFILE
Takumi Ito was born in 1981 in Chiba Prefecture. He opened Cafe IZUMI in 2010. In addition to leading early-morning drip brewing workshops, he also participates in the Morioka Coffee Festival. He is highly regarded by even the most discerning coffee enthusiasts.
The Coffee Lab Devoted to the Art of Dark Roasts
Among the coffee books on the shop’s shelves, a few titles on physics stand out. Takumi Ito says there’s a surprising connection between theoretical physics and coffee.
Word got out that someone in Funabashi, Chiba, was serving truly exceptional coffee, so I made the trip. After a few transfers from the main terminal onto local lines, I arrived at Cafe IZUMI, a spot well known among coffee enthusiasts. It’s not a trendy modern café, nor does it fit the mold of a classic kissaten. The interior feels a little cluttered at first, but as I listened to owner Takumi Ito speak, it all started to make sense. This place is more like a coffee lab. From that moment on, the shelves packed with books, the lineup of custom-designed drip pots, and the sacks of raw beans covering the floor began to feel like essential parts of the experiment.
1st image: The Lead Mill grinder, a bold investment.
2nd image: A collection of drip pots, displayed above the bookshelf, each displaying a distinct spout design.
3rd image: Coffee served in elegant Rosenthal demitasse cups
Takumi Ito discovered his passion for coffee as a university student, when he took a part-time job at a major coffee chain. The shop attracted a steady stream of customers buying beans, and the more he explained the different varieties, the more interested he became. Eager to deepen his knowledge, he enrolled in a seminar at the well-known Horiguchi Coffee. There, he tasted single-origin coffees like Sumatran Mandheling and Ethiopian Washed G-2 and was struck by the complexity and aroma, unlike anything he had experienced before. That moment marked the beginning of his deep dive into the world of coffee.
Inspired by a book by Horiguchi Coffee’s founder, Toshihide Horiguchi, Ito learned about Toshio Kono, the inventor of the Kono-style dripper. Intrigued, he began attending classes at the Kono School, where he studied roasting and mastered the art of pour-over brewing. He learned to pour water as carefully and precisely as an IV drip. The deeper he went into the craft, the more fascinated he became.
He customized the spout of his drip pot to better suit his brewing style. Once the coffee has dripped into the pot, he briefly heats it over a flame for a few seconds before serving.
Although he had made up his mind to pursue a career in coffee, the path didn’t open easily. As a university student, Ito set his sights on Café de L’Ambre, the legendary Ginza shop known for its mastery of the nel drip. Determined to witness their technique firsthand, he made several trips to the café. But each time, nerves got the better of him and he turned back at the door three times. It wasn’t until his fourth attempt, after he had graduated and started working, that he finally sat down for a cup.
After that experience, he began visiting Ginza every three months to continue learning. Back home, he experimented tirelessly, studying L’Ambre’s flavor and refining his technique. Every other weekend, he set up a makeshift café in front of his house to share his latest results. Over six years, he saved the money to open his own specialty coffee shop in 2010.
He named it Cafe IZUMI with two intentions. One was to create a place where people could relax, like resting beside a spring. The other was to pursue coffee with a clarity and consistency like fresh water flowing from the earth.
1st image: Takumi prefers that their coffee is enjoyed in demitasse cups. Most of their cups break away from the typical image of Rosenthal or Okura porcelain, offering a pleasant surprise that makes each cup feel even more special.
2nd image: A baked cheesecake made by his wife, Chiaki. It’s rich with molasses and perfectly matches the bold flavors of the dark roast coffee.
Three years after opening his shop, Ito had a chance encounter that would change everything. Motohiro Seki from the acclaimed Nel Drip Coffee Kiya in Morioka, Iwate, had heard about Ito’s dedication and suddenly reached out by phone. They met at Ginza’s legendary Cafe de l’Ambre, a place that holds special meaning for Ito’s coffee journey. What started as a casual chat soon turned into a three-day summer training camp at Seki’s shop. Ito reflects, “I thought I had mastered what I loved, but Seki’s coffee showed me I had only been following my own way. Over the years from 2014 to 2019, I worked on perfecting every single drop, addressing my weaknesses one by one.” The training naturally ended with the arrival of the pandemic, but through this connection, Ito gained the opportunity to take part in the prestigious Morioka Coffee Festival, a major event for coffee enthusiasts.
Now, Takumi strives to brew coffee that goes beyond words and truly touches the heart. Without relying on scales, he instantly judges the water amount and temperature, pouring his full focus into each drop. His personality and passion for mastery shine through every cup he serves in a delicate demitasse.
Chiaki Ito creates delightful treats that perfectly complement the coffee. Her homemade puddings, ice creams, and meringue desserts come in a wide variety to enjoy.
Chasing the Perfect Cup That Truly Touches the Heart
Takumi says he hopes to one day roast beans that have been aged for over 30 years.
Ito uses a semi-hot air roaster made by Inoue Seisakusho, a manufacturer based in Nagano Prefecture. When asked why, he explained that Inoue Seisakusho also makes the Lead Mill grinder used at the famous Cafe de l’Ambre. When opening his own shop, Ito wanted to bring in a Lead Mill, so he visited the manufacturer directly. At first, he was turned away, but he didn’t give up and returned three months later. That time, he was finally able to get both the Lead Mill grinder and the Inoue Seisakusho roaster.
What excites Ito most about roasting is the cupping process where he carefully monitors the changes in aroma. He says, “Even when I roast with a clear idea of the scent I want to achieve, sometimes the brewed coffee ends up different than I expected. When that happens, I rely on my memory and experience to adjust during the drip extraction. But coffee is forgiving. If you treat it with care, it usually rewards you with a smile.”
1st image: Numerous bags of beans undergoing aging.
2nd image: When the beans start to change color, the heat is reduced, and they’re roasted carefully by hand using a mesh sieve.
The rewarding moment of fine-tuning the roast while tasting the coffee.
At this shop, which specializes in dark roasts, the average roasting time is about 20 minutes. The slow, gradual roasting pairs perfectly with a drip method that resembles slow, steady drops. As the aroma transitions from bright acidity to a rich, toasty scent and finally to caramel-like notes, the beans are pulled from the heat just seconds later. On this particular day, the beans roasting were from Sumatra, harvested in 2016. Because they are aged, the process calls for adding a touch of intuition to the carefully calculated roasting formula. This craftsman’s intuition brings out a unique depth and feeling in the coffee, something invisible that goes beyond physical matter or words. With that memorable insight from a physics-loving coffee artisan, I left the shop feeling inspired.
1st photo: A wide variety of richly aged dark roasts, each with its own unique character
2nd photo: The logo, featuring a flannel drip and red pot, pays tribute to the iconic Café de l’Ambre in Ginza
◾️SHOP
Cafe IZUMI
Official Website：http://kissa-izumi.com/
Address：1-19-10-107 Natsumidai, Funabashi, Chiba Prefecture
Phone：047-767-0915
◾️COFFEE
Roast Level：Medium-dark to dark
Roaster：Semi-hot-air type (1.5 kg) by Inoue Seisakusho
Grinder：Lead Mill
Brew Method：Nel drip
Coffee Types：16 single origins, 4 blends
Cups：Vintage demitasse cups, primarily from Rosenthal
