Uji is a place synonymous with fine tea, and the south Kyoto city’s relationship with tea runs deep. Although tea first arrived in Japan from China, it wasn’t until the Kamakura period(12th – 14th century) that it truly began to take root. Before long, cultivation began in Uji, and its tea quickly earned a reputation as some of the finest in the country. Political leaders like Ashikaga Yoshimitsu championed Uji tea, and renowned tea masters such as Sen no Rikyū treated it as something truly special.
That tradition of excellence has been carefully preserved through the centuries, and Uji’s reputation endures even today. Now a popular tourist destination, it is dotted with tea shops at every turn, with each one being a quiet testament to centuries of craftsmanship.
Tucked just off the bustling street leading to the World Heritage Site Byōdō-in Temple is ‘Baisa Nakamura’. An unassuming shop quietly gaining attention as the only place in Japan where you can enjoy freshly crafted tea, right after the tea leaves have been processed on-site.
Intrigued and a little excited, I decided to stop by and see it for myself.
From Childhood Memories to a Life in Tea
I was greeted by the owner, Eiji Nakamura, a young entrepreneur who’s been running the shop for about three years. Inside, there are a few counter seats, with two paintings on the wall behind that evoke the feeling of ink wash art. But what really catches your eye are the machines visible from the counter, custom-made tea processing equipment, said to be one-of-a-kind in the world.
A view of the interior from the entrance
“The tea is made by steaming, kneading, and drying freshly picked leaves from the fields. It takes time to reach stores, so only those working in the tea factories could truly enjoy tea that’s freshly made. I opened this shop to let anyone experience that,” Eiji explains.
His connection to tea goes back to his childhood.
“My first experience with tea goes way back. My grandfather was the owner of Nakamura Tokichi, a well-known tea shop in Uji, and my father worked there as an executive director. Watching them work, I always had this lingering desire to be part of the tea business.”
Later, his father went independent and started his own tea business. After graduating from university, at his father’s suggestion, Eiji spent a year training at a wagashi (Japanese sweets) shop. He then moved to Kagoshima, where he worked on a tea farm.
“Kagoshima is now the largest tea-producing region in Japan, surpassing Shizuoka, and it’s where the latest techniques and the wisdom of tea production come together. I spent six years there learning everything about tea, then returned to Uji. About a year later, in October 2022, I opened this shop.”
Shop owner Eiji Nakamura
Tea Carefully Crafted by Hand and Machine
At Baisa Nakamura, workshops are regularly held for the general public. Participants sometimes get the chance to make tea themselves using the shop’s specialized tea-making machines, which is one of the highlights of the store. So, how exactly are these machines used ?
“The tea-making process might look complicated, but at its core, it’s about removing moisture from the freshly picked leaves,” Eishi explains. “It’s not just simple drying, though. Think of it more like squeezing water from a wet cloth by applying pressure. For the first step, we use this machine. Inside, metal blades spin while blowing hot air to draw out the moisture.”
The machine used in the first stage of tea production.
Next comes the kneading stage, known as ‘jūnen.’ This process evens out any differences in how the tea leaves have dried. Instead of applying heat, pressure is gently applied from above while the leaves are rotated. This helps balance the moisture throughout the leaves, allowing their full flavor and aroma to be released more easily when brewed.
The kneading machine used to evenly balance moisture in the tea leaves
After that, another machine blows hot air while continuing to knead and dry the tea leaves. Any twisted or curled leaves are then straightened out. Finally, the leaves are dried thoroughly to further reduce their moisture content. Through this process, the tea is carefully finished with the help of machinery.
Sometimes, tea is made by hand using traditional methods instead of machines. In this case, the leaves are spread out on a wooden platform called a ‘hōiro’ and kneaded by hand. Underneath the hōiro, there’s a gas heater that helps dry the leaves as the process continues. This can take around seven hours. There are no long breaks during this process, and it’s physically demanding, but that’s exactly what makes the final product so special.
The hōiro, a wooden platform used for hand-kneading tea leaves.
Cherishing Connections with Others
On the wall of the tea production space, the phrase ‘我逢人’ is written in large characters. What meaning does it hold ?
“There’s a temple called Shion-ji on Awaji Island, and the head priest and calligrapher Nanggaku Kōun wrote this for me.”
The phrase comes from the words of Dōgen, a monk from the early Kamakura period and the founder of the Sōtō school of Zen Buddhism. It translates to “I meet people.” Dōgen expressed his joy upon finally meeting his long-awaited teacher after traveling to China in search of him. From then on, he often stressed to his disciples the importance of meaningful encounters.
“‘我逢人’ is a guiding principle for me as the owner of this shop. It reflects the significant connections that have shaped my journey. From my time in Kagoshima learning the art of tea-making, to meeting the farmers who provide the freshly kneaded tea, and even the architects and craftsmen who helped bring this shop to life. All of these moments have been crucial to where I am today. And I’m certain there will be many more encounters in the future, each one essential as I continue to craft tea.”
The characters ‘我逢人’ written in large script on the wall.
Speechless from a Taste Never Experienced Before
After receiving an explanation of the shop, I placed my tea order. The menu is generally divided into course options and individual items. One of the course options is labeled ‘Freshly Made Sencha〈我逢 Gahou〉Three Varieties.’ The three varieties can be chosen freely from a list of tea types. The list features a radar chart showing elements like softness, richness, and sweetness for each tea, which is a fascinating touch. This time, I decided to leave it up to Eiji’s recommendation.
Each tea is served with its own teapot and teacup. The teapots are particularly interesting, with a variety of designs catching my attention. “These are Tokoname teapots made with Uji clay. There are some rare ones created by teapot artists, as well as those repaired with gold or silver lacquer. I like to display a variety of teapots, each with its own distinct design, so our customers can enjoy them visually as well,” Eiji explains.
The shop receives about 30 customers a day. It seems like a challenge to brew multiple types of tea while engaging with each customer, but there’s no sign of strain on Eiji’s face. He truly seems to enjoy his work.
Three bowls of tea are poured, and a rich, fragrant aroma gently fills the air. Before it cools, I take a sip. I plan to say something insightful, but the words just don’t come.
“It’s… like nothing I’ve ever tasted before,” I manage to say, especially about the one in the middle.
It is absolutely delicious, just perfect, but I can’t quite figure out how to express it. Seeing my hesitation, Eiji steps in to help.
“It’s a bit like dashi, isn’t it? Even though it’s tea, it’s full of umami,” he says.
Yes, it’s similar to dashi, but still unmistakably tea. At that moment, a vivid image of lush, green tea fields fills my mind. I find myself standing alone in those fields, wrapped in their fresh, crisp scent, and reveling in pure joy from experiencing this taste for the very first time.
Looking back, I felt as though I had slipped into a tea paradise for just a moment. Baisa Nakamura is a place that leaves behind a strange, beautiful impression that lingers even now. Next time you find yourself in Kyoto, take a stroll through the historic streets of Uji, and savor a tea experience unlike anything you’ve ever had before.
Baisa Nakamura
Address : 49 Uji Renge, Uji City, Kyoto Prefecture 611-0021
Hours : 12:00 PM – 6:00 PM
Closed : Wednesdays and Thursdays
Website : https://baisa.jp/en
Instagram : @baisa_nakamura
