Fermented foods are drawing attention not just from food lovers, but also from those interested in beauty and wellness. In Japan, the Tokai region is home to a surprising variety of lesser-known fermented specialties. From May 17 (Sat) to July 13 (Sun), 2025, an event titled Hakko(Fermentation) Tourism Tokai will shine a spotlight on the region’s rich fermentation culture. It’s a chance to experience the region’s unique culinary traditions in a way that is both delicious and eye-opening. Let’s take a closer look at what the event has to offer.
What Is Hakko Tourism Tokai?
The Tokai region, made up of Gifu, Aichi, and Mie prefectures, is known nationwide as a major hub for producing umami-rich seasonings. It also has a rich and diverse sushi culture, which lies at the heart of Japanese cuisine. Much of the region’s deep flavors come from the daily work of microorganisms like koji mold and lactic acid bacteria through fermentation. When you explore the local food culture through the lens of fermentation, the history, climate, and lifestyles of the people in the area come into clear focus.
The event’s curator is Hiraku Ogura, a fermentation expert who has written numerous books and runs the specialty shop Fermentation Department in Shimokitazawa, Tokyo. Leading the executive committee is Yusuke Kaba from the NPO ORGAN, a passionate advocate for the Tokai region, especially Gifu, who works tirelessly to promote the area. The two, longtime friends, teamed up to bring this long-cherished event to life.
On the Shinkansen, Hiraku Ogura is holding the microphone on the left, with Yusuke Kaba on the right.
The main venues for each prefecture are Gifu’s Minna no Mori Gifu Media Cosmos, Aichi’s MIZKAN MUSEUM, and Mie’s VISON. In Gifu, the exhibition うまみの聖地巡礼展 (Umami Pilgrimage Exhibition) is being held, while in Aichi, visitors can experience すしの千年を巡る旅 展 (A Journey Through a Thousand Years of Sushi). Both exhibitions are free to enter. Additionally, over 50 sake breweries, fermentation facilities, and restaurants from the region are participating, offering more than 100 special experience programs (advance reservation required). Each of these programs is exceptional and fascinating, providing a unique way to experience fermentation from multiple perspectives.
Completely Unconventional
On May 18, I took part in the Fermentation Shinkansen Umami Pilgrimage Tour B. From the very beginning, it was unlike anything I’d experienced before. We had an entire Shinkansen car all to ourselves, where we enjoyed sake and fermented foods, turning the ride into a festive, lively celebration.
The Tokai Umami Bento prepared for us was filled with local specialties. It included rice balls made with Aichi’s traditional carrot rice, yokanzuke pickles from Mie, and kirizuke pickles from Gifu’s mountain regions. Kirizuke used to be an important winter source of vitamins in those cold areas. I found out that people once grilled frozen kirizuke over an irori hearth, and this old practice inspired the modern local favorite tsukemono steak(pickled steak).
The Tokai Umami Bento paired with sake. The green packet holds a spice mix which can be called Soy Sauce Sprinkle with Hida Sansho
Aichi’s local specialty, Sake Kasu Chicken was served. (Sake kasu, also known as sake lees, is the leftover solids from sake production. It’s rich in nutrients and has a unique flavor.) Even the French fries, which seemed simple at first, were special. They were tossed in a white cream made from fermented rice. This cream is inspired by an ingredient used to make Ayu no Uresushi, a famous fermented sweetfish dish from Gifu’s Nagara River region.
According to Hiraku Ogura, ayu from the Nagara River does not develop any fishy odor even when pickled whole. This is because the river’s water is very clean and the ayu are vegetarians that eat only plants. The fermented rice infused with the rich umami of the ayu has a perfect balance of sweetness and acidity. Its deep flavor is complex, almost like cheese.
The sake paired with the dish was a craft beer called ‘Yattokame Ale‘ from Kamado Brewery in Gifu’s Tono region, brewed by a legendary brewer. The beer was full bodied with a long finish. It was pleasant with a bright aroma and a bitterness that refreshes the throat. There was also a 180ml bottle of three-year aged sake ‘Daruma Masamune‘, made by Shiraki Kosuke Shoten. The clear golden liquid reminded me of vanilla and maple syrup. It had a gentle sweetness balanced with caramel notes and a clean acidity. The umami lingered pleasantly at the end.
The sake and snacks were already very satisfying. On top of that, real maiko and geisha were invited onto the train. They entertained the passengers with singing, dancing, and pouring drinks, creating a lively and joyful atmosphere.
A dance performance by geisha was held inside the Shinkansen train.
Gifu’s Main Venue: A Multipurpose Complex Designed by Toyo Ito
After arriving at Nagoya Station, we took a large bus to the main venue, Minna no Mori Gifu Media Cosmos. This multipurpose facility, built in 2015, combines a civic activity exchange center, a Starbucks, and a library all under one roof. It was designed by Toyo Ito, a world-renowned architect and recipient of numerous awards including the Pritzker Prize. The building’s exterior is unique, featuring an impressively gentle, undulating roof that harmonizes beautifully with Gifu’s natural surroundings and mountainous landscape.
Entrance of Minna no Mori Gifu Media Cosmos
The exhibition took place on the first floor, but since I had the chance, I decided to take the escalator up to check out the second floor as well. The second floor houses the Gifu City Library. What caught my eye right away was the stunning ceiling. Thin wooden beams were arranged in a lattice pattern, forming gentle, wave-like curves that flow rhythmically and irregularly across the entire ceiling. It’s creates such a spacious and captivating atmosphere.
The Gifu City Library on the second floor also serves as a space for everyday life in the community.
From the ceiling, large umbrella-like structures resembling giant mushrooms seem to float in midair, adding a dreamlike quality to the space. They appear softly illuminated, almost translucent, casting a gentle glow that creates a warm and calming atmosphere. The ceiling itself is crafted from Tōnō hinoki cypress, a local wood from Gifu Prefecture. It’s not just beautiful but also serves a structural purpose. Just stepping into this space makes the visit well worth it.
A Vivid and Immersive Look into the Sacred Sites of Umami
Now, back to the Umami Pilgrimage Exhibition.
A video at the entrance offers a look into the world of fermentation and how these foods are made. Just beyond that, the next room showcases a vibrant lineup of signature fermented foods from all 47 prefectures across Japan.
A showcase of fermented foods from all 47 prefectures.
Each item features detailed photos and explanations about its production, ways to enjoy it, the regions where it’s eaten, and the types of microbes involved. Actual samples of the fermented foods are on display, accompanied by handwritten notes from Hiraku Ogura. Some of these foods are on the brink of extinction, and since they’re hard to find locally, Hikaru Ogura even makes them himself. For the more unusual items, they’re kept in containers with lids so visitors can open them and freely smell their unique aromas.
Kusaya has a pretty intense aroma that might catch you off guard if it’s your first time experiencing it.
Some of the smells can be quite strong, but it’s best to be bold and open the lids to experience them. It’s a great opportunity to connect with the rich and diverse world of fermentation.
In another large room, you’ll find an impressive collection of fermented foods from the Tokai region. From miso, soy sauce, mirin, and vinegar to a wide variety of local sushi and pickles, Tokai’s unique food culture, rarely seen elsewhere, is truly fascinating. There’s so much to take in that if you read every detail carefully, the day will fly by. It’s highly recommended to allow plenty of time when visiting.
The Tokai area exhibition includes displays not only of food but also of shrines and pottery, highlighting their close ties to the local culinary culture.
Right outside the exhibition space, there’s an original shop showcasing mainly products from the Tokai region. You can buy some of the fermented foods featured in the exhibit and try them for yourself. The guidebook, which acts as the exhibition catalog, is also well worth picking up. It offers detailed descriptions of all the Tokai displays, along with recommendations for fermentation-related shops and restaurants to visit in the area.
The shop corner offers a wide variety of products, including refrigerated items, making for a well-stocked selection.
Hakko Tourism Tokai is not only a must-see for its main venue exhibition but also for the many unique fermentation experience programs held throughout the region. You can browse and book all of them on the official website. Visiting breweries to hear directly from the brewers, or making and tasting fermented foods with brewers and chefs, offers a richer, more immersive way to connect with the local fermentation culture and the region itself.
In the next installment, we’ll explore some of the breweries and spots I visited through these programs. Stay tuned.
Hakko Tourism Tokai 2025
Event Period: May 17, 2025 (Saturday) – July 13, 2025 (Sunday)
Website : https://tokaihakko.net/
