The Metamorphosis of Sake: The Fragrant and Innovative Japanese New Sake, Jochu

Jochu (Japanese Spirit), with sacred paper tassels hanging from the bottle neck, exuding a divine aura.

When you embark on travels, your focus naturally shifts to the things deeply rooted in the land. Japanese sake, made from rice and water, with the expertise and intuition of skilled brewers shaping its quality and flavor, tells the story of the region’s history and the lingering feeling of a journey. In particular, pure rice sake, brewed with yeast without heating, embodies a unique Japanese terroir that highlights its distinct character.

1st image: Koichiro Miyake, CEO of Naorai
2nd image: MIKADO LEMON, the first sparkling lemon wine he launched after founding his company

Koichiro Miyake, the founder of Naorai, has dedicated himself to spreading the appeal of Japanese sake. Growing up in an environment surrounded by family members in the sake brewing industry, he naturally developed a deep connection to the drink. While studying abroad in Shanghai, he was inspired to work toward expanding the market for Japanese sake in China, a mission he pursued for nine years. After realizing that Japanese sake had yet to establish itself as a brand like wine or whiskey, Miyake returned to Japan and, in 2015, founded his company on Mikado Island in Kure City, Hiroshima Prefecture, with the goal of creating a new brand for Japanese sake.

1st image: Jochu, with the aroma of sake and a whiskey-like smoothness
2nd image:The “Kamishi Distillery” produces the first Jochu (a type of distilled spirit) created by Naorai, established in Kamishi Kogen Town.

The name Naorai symbolizes gratitude for the abundance that nature provides, inspired by a traditional Japanese custom of offering thanks through rituals. Miyake’s first focus was on the pesticide-free lemons grown on Mikado Island. By using a technique to extract the aroma from the peel at low temperatures, he created the ultimate sparkling lemon wine. “The significance of aroma, which isn’t visible to the eye, is the same for sake. That’s why I believed the low-temperature distillation method I developed could be applied to sake in the same way,” says Miyake.

1st image: A bottle inspired by naturally dripping water droplets
2nd image: A sake brewery card showing which type of pure rice sake was used

In 2018, they partnered with four sake breweries in Hiroshima Prefecture and set up a distillery in the Jinseki Plateau. Their aim was to distill sake at a low temperature of 35–39°C, applying pressure to concentrate the rich aroma of pure rice sake into a distilled spirit. After two years of experimentation, the innovative Jochu was created in 2020, a spirit unlike both shochu and sake. The bottle, with its organic silhouette inspired by water droplets, is decorated with paper tassels symbolizing sacred realms. The range includes three varieties: the basic Jochu-Purified Spirit Hakushide, with white paper tassels made from pure rice sake; Jochu-Purified Spirit Kinshide, with gold paper tassels, aged in barrels; and Kohaku Jochu-Sake Zest Spirit Kokushide, with black paper tassels, aged in barrels and infused with Hiroshima’s signature lemon peel.

The barrels are crafted from Miyazaki Prefecture’s water oak, a wood known for its fragrant qualities, and domestically sourced American oak. The aroma that evolves with age is something to eagerly anticipate.

In 2025, a new distillery will open in Noto, adding to the growing excitement around the revival of sake breweries. “Our ultimate goal is to establish distilleries in all 47 prefectures. In Hiroshima, we added lemon to the Kokushide (Hiroshima prefecture boasts the largest lemon production in Japan), and similarly we want to create flavors that reflect the unique terroirs of each region,” says Miyake. Like whiskey, it can be enjoyed with soda, on the rocks for a richer taste, or with water to appreciate its delicate flavors. With meticulous craftsmanship and distinct characteristics, it’s gaining recognition as a new category of Japanese spirits. Try it for yourself, and experience the evolution of sake.

Miyake has emerged as a pioneer of a third category of Japanese spirits, distinct from both shochu and sake. Amid the decline of sake breweries due to the aging of sake brewers, he has found a glimmer of hope for the future of the sake industry through Jochu.

Photo credit: All images courtesy of Naorai.

Naorai
Website: https://naorai.co/
Online Shop: https://naorai.myshopify.com/

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Takako Kabasawa

Takako Kabasawa is a Creative Director who specializes in writing and editing for women's magazines and books, as well as corporate concept work and branding. She is well-versed in Japanese culture, including kimono and tea ceremony, as well as regional handcraft cultures. In 2023, inspired by the world of fashion, she co-founded the brand KOTOWA with three friends to bring a fashionable approach to enjoying kimono. https://www.k-regalo.info/

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