Tokyo, a sprawling metropolis with over 10 million people, has neighborhoods that each boast their own distinct culture and atmosphere. Having spent most of my time in the Shibuya area, I’ve always felt slightly out of my element in Shinjuku’s Kabukicho district—it’s a little unsettling, almost like stepping into another country. Of course I’ve caught movies at TOHO Cinemas Shinjuku, famous for the Godzilla Head, but usually head straight back to the station afterward. The sea of neon lights has always piqued my curiosity, but without any reason to visit cabaret clubs or friends familiar with Kabukicho’s maze-like streets, I’ve always hesitated and turned back.
That’s why BENTEN 2024, an art night held in Kabukicho over three evenings—November 2, 3, and 4—was the perfect chance to explore this enigmatic part of Tokyo. The event transformed Kabukicho’s backstreets and bars into venues for art and performances, inviting visitors to wander and discover. Intrigued by the opportunity to experience a side of Kabukicho I’d never ventured into, I joined the press tour and am excited to share my experience.
A Portal to Another World: Ohjo Building
The Ohjo Building, a castle-inspired structure dating back 60 years to the Showa bubble era, served as the main hub of the event.
The first floor, dubbed A-Yoko, short for Art Yokocho (Alley), was buzzing with artists and creative communities coming together to showcase performances, sell unique goods, and offer food and drinks in a vibrant, bazaar-like space.
On the second and third floors, the Tianzhuo Chen Solo Exhibition took center stage, with ritual performance videos inspired by the whaling traditions of Indonesia’s Lamarela village, alongside an enormous 3D whale installation. Adding to the experience, Chen and performer Siko Setiyanto hosted special performances on November 2 and 3 at the Shinjuku Kabuki-cho Noh Stage, each featuring a guest collaborator.
Tianzhuo Chen’s solo exhibition
The fourth floor featured a group exhibition titled ‘Messenger from Hell,’ showcasing video documentation and works by artists with ties to Shinjuku, including Shiro Masuyama, Kazuhiko Hachiya, Makoto Aida, Sayako Kishimoto. The fifth floor, set up like a small screening room, displayed the video work ‘Ritual for Omega and Alpha’ by Mai Endo. The film, which captured a nude performance in a museum setting, explored the blurred lines between entertainment and art.
Group exhibition: Messenger from Hell
The exposed concrete and the worn, decaying atmosphere of the Ohjo Building perfectly complemented the artworks, creating a striking synergy. The floors, with kitchen counters left as they were, and the building’s aged scent made it feel like stepping into the ruins of a forgotten Showa-era world.
Interior of the Ohjo Building
Interweaving with the Hustle of Kabukicho
Tucked away in a narrow alley next to TOHO Cinemas was another venue, Decameron Kabukicho. Here, as part of ‘Private Super Starry Night,’ a series of posters was showcased featuring a collaboration between Yukkyun and Ohzora Kimishima, photographed by Ayano Sudo. Nearby, in a space that resembled the remains of a former snack bar, Yuko Okada’s audio works ‘Ochiru’ and ‘Inoru’ were on display. By scanning a QR code, visitors could experience a walking tour of Kabukicho, listening to Okada’s narration through the Artsticker app.
The alley had a strange, almost eerie vibe, filled with peculiar spots like shisha bars and fortune-telling shops, creating a scene that felt far from 2024 in Japan. Though I’d passed nearby a few times before, without this opportunity, I never would have ventured in.
Also hidden away in an alley is Bar Tokyo Sabaku, an art bar which is said to have been founded by artist Makoto Aida. Right next door, there’s a restaurant serving rat meat, offering a glimpse into a rather deep and unusual world. The stairs leading up to the bar are notoriously dangerous, with frequent falls by customers making it a well-known hazard or feature. Some of the steps are tilted forward, so visitors have to grip the railing tightly and climb like they’re bouldering.
After finally making it to the third floor, past the bustling bar space on the second, I entered a small white cube gallery where a 3D installation from Tomotosi’s series ‘Obsessive Pending Plan’ was on display.
The next place I visited, the Shinjuku Kabuki-cho Noh Stage, was just as startling. Located in an aging building that’s akin to a Showa-era apartment, the entrance is surprisingly through the shared garbage disposal area of the building, making for a chaotic yet novel experience.
On the stage, There was a video installation by Kyoko Yasuhara. Multiple overlapping screens were set up to present the new Noh performance ‘Iruma River,’ created by Shiori Watanabe, Noboru Yasuda, Shingo Kato, and Dominique Chen. Close-up shots of the Noh masks captured an intensity and beauty that traditional Noh stages can’t offer. By combining this classical performing art with new technology, the work brought out an even greater allure.
Though not part of the press tour, other events unfolded across Kabukicho, including performances at the host club AWAKE and the gallery WHITEHOUSE, video installations on the Yunika Vision screens, and late-night music performances in the basement of the Ohjo Building, along with street acts scattered throughout the area.
On November 2 and 3, the Kabuki Super Festival lit up Cinecity Square in front of Kabukicho Tower, adding even more energy to the already electric Kabukicho nights.
Moving between venues, I found myself weaving through crowds of people visiting Kabukicho for entirely different reasons than exploring an art night. It felt as though I was peeking into Kabukicho’s nightlife from a parallel world. Movie theaters, izakayas, cabaret clubs, batting cages, love hotels—so many people, each with their own purpose, sharing the same small stretch of the city yet existing in completely separate worlds, passing one another without ever truly meeting.
By the end of the night, I realized that the true essence of Kabukicho Art Night BENTEN 2024 wasn’t just the art or performances. It was the experience of stepping into this surreal, layered world, where I was both an observer and a participant, caught in the distinct rhythms of Kabukicho’s extraordinary nightlife.
BENTEN 2024
HP: https://benten-kabukicho.com/
IG : @benten2024_kabukicho
